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   #11
 12     0
Do you keep the lid on the back off the stove open? That is for making more draught through the «bonfire isnt it?

Hello Zippy,

Yes but it closes automaticly when the stove is hot enouph, but its always close because the fire its to intence,, all flames go up in the pipe,, so the energy go’s also in to the pipe,,

Is there nothing in norway for a chimney that have to much draupht?

   #12
 4,623     Sørlandet     0
No never heard of it, usually its the other way around.

Too be honest with you i think i would buy a new stove. The modern ones gives better heat for less wood consumption (simply put) and they aint got that many levers and buttons and what not. And you probably wont have a too much draught problem. Just my two cents.
   #13
 5,336     Tromsø     0
A new stove is not necessarily the solution. I suppose this stove is quite new (with classical design) if it has air supply adjusted automatically by a bimetal thermostat.

If the draught is intense, how tall is the chimney, mesured from the top to the stove? Does the draught vary with outdoor air pressure and wind?

Some flames entering the chimney should not be a big problem if the chimney is clean without combustible material inside. However, if the inside of the chimney is covered with tar from incomplete combustion, the chimney may burn and get weakened, and in some extreme events set the house on fire. Chimneys should be swept regularly, in Norway at least every four years is required by regulations, but yearly may be a good idea depending on what stove(s) that are in use, and how they are used.

Correct use of a wood burning stove: Pile up several logs, biggest ones at the bottom, finer at top. Ignite in the upper half, do not close the door completely the first 10-30 minutes to supply plenty of air. Let the first wood burn from top to bottom. This gives cleaner smoke and less formation of tar. When the wood is burned down to glowing rubble without flames, add one log at the time. Do not overfeed a hot stove. This should give clean burning, and keep the flames and most of the heat within the stove, and not in the chimney.
Signatur
Ebe
   #14
 4,452     Vestlandet     0
The chimney draft can't be higher than the airflow in to the oven? Regulate down the incoming airflow, and chimney draft will be reduced ass well?
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HSt
   #15
 36,582     Lillestrøm kommune     0
He might have a case with the to high draft, it is possible that the draft markes it impossible to get the temperature to raise in the stove. A neighbor of some family of me installed a manual draft regulator out from the stove and finally managed to get the stove to work as it should. Before his old stove had worked ok.
   #16
 342     Hordaland     0
It may be a leaking door sealing which give to much air for the flames and too low flame temperature. My chimney is 8 m tall with very good draft. If I close both the primary and secondary air innlet in the stove, the flames stops after few minutes. A properly designed and maintained stove should be able to prevent too much air for the flames. Its also important to close the primary air after the fire is established and then regulate the fires intensity with the secondary air vent.

Some stoves has a nr 2 secondary intake duct for the after burner catalysator. Its not possibly to regulate the air volume in the duct. If the draft is to high, this duct might give to high air volume for the flames.
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   #17
 12     0
Wow thanx for al the comment and info, i wil reply soon this day,,,,
ik kom terug op antwoorden.
A nother question,, i can buy a jotul 400 cb,, is this a good stove?

Thanx 

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   #18
 12     0
A new stove is not necessarily the solution. I suppose this stove is quite new (with classical design) if it has air supply adjusted automatically by a bimetal thermostat.

If the draught is intense, how tall is the chimney, mesured from the top to the stove? Does the draught vary with outdoor air pressure and wind?

Some flames entering the chimney should not be a big problem if the chimney is clean without combustible material inside. However, if the inside of the chimney is covered with tar from incomplete combustion, the chimney may burn and get weakened, and in some extreme events set the house on fire. Chimneys should be swept regularly, in Norway at least every four years is required by regulations, but yearly may be a good idea depending on what stove(s) that are in use, and how they are used.

Correct use of a wood burning stove: Pile up several logs, biggest ones at the bottom, finer at top. Ignite in the upper half, do not close the door completely the first 10-30 minutes to supply plenty of air. Let the first wood burn from top to bottom. This gives cleaner smoke and less formation of tar. When the wood is burned down to glowing rubble without flames, add one log at the time. Do not overfeed a hot stove. This should give clean burning, and keep the flames and most of the heat within the stove, and not in the chimney.


Hello,

Yes its a stove a year making of 2013, but i think the problem is that its a comination stove,,, i’m not shure but i think,,,

The draupht is 35pa when hot , when its windy day ist sometimes 45 pa,, my ropes are new,

My chimney a stainlessteel 8,5 meter is from 2013 sow its not nee but also not old,,

Its cleant swiping 2 times a yeare, so i think thats enouph?

if I can be honest I have been playing with this stove for so long that I really dont like it ennymore, ... i think i must stop using coal and I buy a jotul 400 cb ,,, is clean burning (cb) a nice alternative?
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   #20
 12     0
The chimney draft can't be higher than the airflow in to the oven? Regulate down the incoming airflow, and chimney draft will be reduced ass well?

The chimney draft can't be higher than the airflow in to the oven? Regulate down the incoming airflow, and chimney draft will be reduced ass well?

The draft cames down but al valvs must be close then